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Do i need to power down the system wiring as well please? And can I just stick the plaster / browning on the wall bricks instead – after sealing these of course?

O n the ceiling the light fixtures need to be taken down..on the wall just pull the outlet covers off but not the outlets themselves…when you take the ceiling fixtures off..put a "scotch lock" on each wire and tuck the wires into the box it is attached to..You cut the holes that go over the electrical boxes in the plaster board and slip it over them..

My other half has been building for a little while now and would like to make a go of it long term. He’d really like to do some sort of course (recognised if poss) in general building skills, perhaps bricklaying, blockwork, plastering, that sort of thing, but try as I might I cannot find any info anywhere.

We live in North Devon and I had hoped the local colleges might do something but all they seem to offer is foundation courses and I think he’s a bit beyond that. He doesn’t want to get into plumbing or electrical work, he’s already good at carpentry, but he’d like to have some formal training in general building skills – can anyone suggest where might be a good place to start???

Thank you!
Devon may be in England but that is still part of the UK so my question still stands. I did in fact include it so that Americans (of which there are many signed up to Yahoo Answers) had a clue as to it’s location in the world.

Are there any sensible suggestions???

The UK is England, Scotland, Wales & Northern Ireland altogether,

Devon is in England.

Im looking to get into the plastering trade but I am unsure of which course to take as there is so many out there that vary in price, ideally I would like to get the City & Guilds qualification and eventually end up with my own business I have no experiance of plastering so all the help and advice that you could give me would be great.

Thank you in advance
I live in the UK

plastering like any trade is a skill that takes years to learn and perfect, anyway city and guilds was phazed out long ago you’ll need to do an NVQ instead. i’m not sure of your age but the basic paperwork is easy enough to get its the practical onsite skills with employers that matter. go to your local DWP and ask them for advice. i’m just a building site labourer no expert.

I’m unemployed at the moment and I need to do something with my life.I feel very stuck & Limited to what I can do. I would like to take up plastering & tiling so I can go self employed.I have seen one of those private run training colleges called Trade skills 4 u based in Crawley. Does anyone know if they are any good? The courses are very expensive NVQ level 2 plastering cost £2225 for 12 weeks! & tiling NVQ level 2 £1500! I can’t get any funding from the job centre or government. Is it really worth spending this money and go out self employed on my own afterwards? I’m 34 years old and feel that no one will employ me because of my age! that’s why I thought of going self employed to be my own boss. Does anyone know of this training college & could you really be a qualified plasterer & tiller in such short amount of time? or should I not do it at all? I have very good practical skills. Any idea’s? I don’t want an office job.

if you ended up a good plasterer you will stil struggle as there is no work about

I need to cut holes in common plaster walls for installation of ethernet data points (with face plates like some normal electical outlets).

What is the best method bearing in mind of course I want to avoid splitting the plaster.

Drill a hole then jigsaw the shape out?

Drill a hole then file the shape out?

other?

The previous answers are good if the plaster is new, but you are talking about a very tricky problem as plaster is going to crack no matter how careful you are. Then behind the older plaster are wooden lathing strips which tend to shake, loosen, weaken in all the wrong spots. If you have lots of time, then you can try this.
1- Use the plastic old work electrical box (they used to come with a free paper template to trace the outline).
2- Trace that outline and use the smallest drill bit and a very light electric drill, (bit should be about 1/16" or 1/32") and make a closely spaced line of holes following the trace and be sure to go deep enough to get through the lathing too.
3- Once you have these closely spaced holes all the way around then begin tilting the drill to elongate the holes until they start interconnecting with each other (you can interconnect 3 or 4 holes and slip a hacksaw blade in with the teeth facing out toward you, place a thumb and forefinger (over and under the blade to press on the wall and cut drawing the blade toward you).
4- Good luck – You didn’t mention how you got the data cables inside the wall.

just a few questions really, im 21 really looking at getting into plastering done the laboring side but now want to learn. Im in the Peterborough uk area, just wondering how i go about finding a employer willing to teach? or is there any courses you can take at college that can teach you without a employer, its impossible to get anyone to take me on i seem to have tried everything..

Im not too worried about loads of money i have a evening job that pays well, just wanna learn the trade through the day!

any help would be awesome thanks allot.

They should have construction or shop classes at the high school and college you can take. Contact the construction companies. They would tell you what you need to know.

As all the carpets need to be removed all radiaters, skirting boards and plug sockets.

If you are getting rising damp plastering the wall will not help, I solved this problem by drilling holes about 4" apart and injecting a damp proofing liquid into the holes,the filling the holes with cement, don’t plaster below the the holes as it will only let the rising damp get back up the wall. I did this on the outside of a solid wall so if you intend to do this on the inside you will have to remove the skirting boards etc.

I recently purchased a ‘basement’ flat, with two party walls to either side of the property. My surveyor found high damp readings on each, so I employed a specialist damp company to carry out work.
They tanked the one wall, but the other they said needed a damp proof course. They replastered afterwards.
This was about a month ago, and the plaster on the tanked walls is completely dry, but where the damp proof course was put in, the plaster isn’t dry.
My surveyor came around and said there are still extremely high damp readings in this area.
The lady at the damp company said it will take around 9 months to dry!! Is this true?

I think so. It may be the residual water in the walls which will take a while to dry out. The tanked walls will appear dry because the tanking is providing a barrier between the wall and the plaster but where the DPC was installed the moisture will still be present for a while. It takes 1 month per inch of thickness of the wall to dry. try not to worry too much. keep a steady heat in the rooms concerned and have them checked in the summer. Did you get a guarantee with the work? if so if there are any problems the company will have to come back and rectify them for free.

Hi

Im looking to learn the basics of plastering enought to be able to plasterboard and skim walls and ceilings for my own house so i don’t have to use linning paper on walls?

Any help or offers, I live in Addlestone, Surrey UK

Thanks

Dave
Can anyone help further??

Drywall isn’t difficult. Go to a hardware store and read about it in a do-it-yourself book. One trick I will tell you is thin the joint compound slightly and mix it well. Make it like heavy waffle batter. Use several thin coats, keeping it smooth. Let it dry and repeat process after sanding off the rough edges. Good Luck